March 13, 2025
Overview
Masumi’s was the first “Arabashiri” release to go into wide distribution in Japan, launching in Tokyo in 1983. Since then it has evolved steadily, but always as a robust expression of the potent unpasteurized, undiluted namagenshu genre. This year marks a striking departure—despite the 17% alcohol content, its supple body, brisk acidity and reduced glucose give it an easy drinkability rarely seen in a genshu sake.
The sweetness is apparent at first sip, but it serves a larger purpose, mollifying the high alcohol content and in tandem with the bright acidity bringing the sake into harmony.
Brewed as nearly all Masumi’s sakes are from No. 7 yeast, the aroma is quite mild, with a lovely white peach fragrance.
Production notes
Essentially the same bottling and storage procedures as last year were used. After bottling the sake was shipped from the brewery to the U.S. in an unbroken chill chain.
This year’s U.S. release is earlier than usual. Bottled in Japan in November, the first shipment reached the U.S. in February. Although “fresh is best” when it comes to namazake, experience has shown that time on the water in transit tends to make the sake a bit more mellow.
Masumi No. 7 yeast variant
Association No. 7 yeast, first discovered at Masumi’s Suwa brewery in 1946, is conducive to the brewing of smooth, easy-drinking sakes. Arabashiri 2025 is made with a variety of No. 7 yeast developed at the brewery’s research lab.
No. 7 is not a highly aromatic yeast, but Masumi’s research staff is developing variants that do possess “ginjoka” aroma characteristics. This year’s release, with its delicate white peach aroma, marks a step in that direction.
Rice
There was some heat damage to the rice, as has become usual is recent years, with inconsistent grain sizes and a tendency to break during polishing. There is no way to prevent this—the brewery just has to adapt its brewing process. The key is proper water absorption when steaming the rice (but not too much in order to achieve a clean, straightforward taste). Masumi toji Atsushi Nakano says they do not think in terms of rice “usability” but simply adapt the process season by season, and that this year’s rice harvest had little affect on the quality of the Arabashiri.
Flavor
Sweetness, acidity and amino acids are all lower than last year, making for a milder flavor impact. Even though alcohol content is 17% it doesn’t taste like it and drinks easily.
The underlying sweetness and brisk acidity help the sake achieve a well-rounded balance, pulling the big flavor impact into harmony. This gives the sake a touch of elegance, a word rarely applied to namagenshu sakes.
This year a SF (super-fine) filter was used for the first time. It is able to catch fine lees and yeast that aren’t caught by typical pressing and filtration. This results in a clearer taste.
Food pairing
Goes well with pan-seared trout, miso-braised chicken, fines herbes omelette, yuzu daikon.
Arabashiri is nama, or unpasteurized. Keep refrigerated at all times and serve chilled or with a cube of ice.